Cutie-pie. It’s been so fun watching Chanel change over these past couple of months. She’s gonna grow out of these onesies in a hot minute!
I have 4 friends and 1 boss who are simultaneously pregnant so my life has been filled with lots of baby-talk these days. Yikes. I’m gonna be the world’s best aunt. Anyway, I promised my friend Pri that I would make her a baby blanket to match with her nursery, but I’d been procrastinating like crazy. And then I found out last weekend that she was starting to dilate, so that was obviously reason enough to sit down and make it. :X
I used this simple tutorial and I’m happy with the way it turned out! It fakes mitered corners without compromising the look of the final product. (Note that in the pictures in the original tutorial, the corners of the blanket look a bit stretched/sharp..? I was able to square them off pretty easily though so it shouldn’t be an issue if you’re careful.)
Cameo by Patrick the Pup
I was able to give the blanket to Pri on Monday and she loved it. Yay! Her husband even wrapped himself in it (trust me, it’s soft) and asked if I could make it in a bigger size. 😉
Baby C loved it too! 🙂 A quick (fuzzy) iPhone pic from Monday evening. So happy we got to talk over dinner and dessert– which will probably be a rare occasion from here on out.
Pri is actually in labor RIGHT NOW (I’m writing this Wed 11pm, though this post will be published in a few hours), so everyone send a quick prayer her way!
Has it come to this?
Yes. Yes it has. I am now spending the little free time I have making baby DIYs because apparently many friends are now in the life stage of…. having babies. I don’t know how this happened, but my bff from high school, my bff from college, and my bff from grad school…. are all pregnant right now.
WHAT AM I DOING WITH MY LIFE.
Anyway. Ignore my existential crisis because hot damn, these baby onesies came out cute, if I must say. I gave them to my friend Pri, whose baby shower I attended this past Saturday. Tutorial and templates (bird, giraffe, elephant) from here; heart template free-handed. I bought a pack of four Carter’s brand onesies from Target, and all fabric swatches were from scraps I had.
Better than the onesies was the packaging though– will save that for another post!
I made this project a few times in the last few years but never posted pictures! I used this tutorial (with a few changes as suggested here) and it’s definitely a more complicated sewing project (takes ~5 hours from start to finish). It carries a Pyrex 9″x13″ baking/casserole dish and I’ve given them as bridal shower gifts– include the Pyrex in the carrier, and put some kitchen goodies inside (or lingerie, I suppose).
I really need to get back on the sewing machine……. so many projects bookmarked, so little time!
Recently inspired to sew again, I tried my hand at making another zippered pouch that was one (or two….or five) steps more complicated than the oilcloth pouch I first made.
I used Noodlehead‘s tutorial here, with her size chart here to figure out how much fabric I needed. Though I was able to follow along with her steps, it was a bit confusing going back and forth between her two links, as she had 3 sizing and 2 design options, with obviously different measurements. Sooo I’ve re-done the tutorial below for her MEDIUM-sized pouch with a contrast bottom (approximate finished dimensions: 6″ H x 6.5″ W x 4.5″ D) with a list of exact measurements in one place. To note, Noodlehead’s original tutorial is shown in a size small without the contrast bottom.
In this tutorial, Fabric A will refer to the exterior top fabric of the pouch (in my pouch, the red fabric). Fabric B will refer to both the bottom contrasting exterior fabric, as well as the fabric of the interior (in my pouch, the black polka dot fabric).
Before you start, iron Fabrics A and B onto the fusible interfacing, then cut all fabric to size (you should end up with 2 pieces of Fabric A and 4 pieces of Fabric B). Another option is to cut all fabric to size first, and then iron each piece individually onto the interfacing (then cut again). The tutorial says attaching interfacing is optional, and if you choose to, attach it to the exterior pieces of fabric only. I wanted to attach it to the interior pieces as well in order to give it more weight, as my cotton fabric was pretty thin and i wanted the bag a bit sturdier.
Lay Fabric A and Fabric B (12″x 5.5″) right sides together, and sew along the long edge with a 1/2″ seam allowance (pictured left, above). Repeat with your second piece of Fabric A and Fabric B (12″x5.5″). Then open the pieces and iron flat (pictured right, above). These two finished pieces will be your exterior pieces.
“Lay one exterior piece right side up, lay zipper (teeth side down) on top with the zipper pull at the left – aligning zipper tape edge to the raw edges of the top of the exterior piece. Tuck in pull side zipper end, just bend it 90 degrees. You may choose to sew it down, or just pin it in place like I did. Make sure the metal bit of the zipper is just about 3/4″ away from the left edge. Layer lining piece on top, right side down on top of zipper. Pin and baste, you can skip this part, but basting really does help things from slipping around too much. ”
As shown in the picture above, I actually chose to stable the zipper end (bent 90 degrees), as it stayed in place better than pinning, but was faster than sewing. You can take the staple out later.
“Use your zipper foot and a 1/4″ seam allowance. Sew over basting stitches, but not all the way to the end. At about 1″ before the edge of the fabric, stop, backstitch, and then pull the zipper away from the seam, bending it down out of the way, in towards the fabrics. The whole point is to pull it out of the way so it doesn’t get caught in the seam. Continue stitching along the fabrics until the edge.”
I think this (sewing everything together using a zipper foot) was the trickiest part of the tutorial… probably because I was too lazy to baste. -_- Like Noodlehead said would happen, the zipper and fabric kept slipping around. In the time it took to get it right, I could have probably basted it and saved myself the annoyance. Live and learn…
“Flip so that the fabrics are wrong sides facing and press.”
Because I attached interfacing to all my fabric, I had to be careful when ironing, for fear that all my pieces would fuse together. I just laid a piece of paper (pictured above, left) on the inside of the folded pieces so that the interfacing wouldn’t touch when facing each other while I pressed the seams at the zipper. Pictured above, right– after pressing.
“Lay the remaining exterior piece right side up, lay zipper (with fabrics attached) on top – teeth side down with the zipper pull at the right. Tuck in pull side zipper end, just bend it 90 degrees, just like before, making sure the metal bit of the zipper is just over 3/4″ away from the right edge this time. Lay lining piece right side down on top. Pin and baste. Using the zipper foot and a 1/4″ seam allowance sew over basting stitches, but not all the way to the end just like before.”
You’re basically doing the same thing as you did before. 🙂
“Again, about 1″ before the edge of the fabric, stop, backstitch, and then pull the zipper away from the seam, bending it down, in towards the fabrics. Continue stitching along the fabrics until the edge. Flip so that the fabrics are wrong sides facing and press. Do NOT topstitch along either side of the zipper at this point, we’ll be doing that in another step towards the end. This is what you’ve got so far” (pictured above, left). Next. flip so that the exterior fabrics are right sides together and the lining pieces are right sides together (with the zipper hidden in the middle).”
Above 6 pictures: “Open the zipper at least half way at this point! Pin and sew around all edges leaving approximately a 4″ opening in the bottom (or side) of the lining. You’ll be using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Be sure to get close to the metal zipper ends on one side, and bending the zipper end down into the pouch on the other side making sure it doesn’t get caught in the seam.”
“Box the corners by pinching each corner together and aligning the side/bottom seams. Use a ruler and water soluble marker to mark a line perpendicular to the side seam 4″ long.”
Depending on the pouch size you choose, this side seam length will change– 3.5″ for the small pouch, 4″ for medium, and 4.5″ for large.
“Sew along that line, trim the seam allowance. Do this for all four corners (two exterior, two lining).”
“Pull pouch right side out through the opening you left in the lining. Tuck in raw edges of opening.”
“Sew opening in lining closed using a small seam allowance by machine (sewing close to the fold as in the above picture) or hand stitch the opening closed. Push lining into exterior. Press around entire opening and carefully along the zipper.
Topstitch using a slightly longer stitch length (and taking your time) around the entire opening of the pouch.”
I skipped the topstitching. I liked the look of the pouch without it, but it’s totally an option.
“Trim the zipper tail so that you have about 1″ of space past the pouch’s side (be careful not to accidentally slide the zipper pull off the zipper!).”
“For making the zipper pull tab, take a 2″x3″ piece of fabric. Press all edges in by 1/2″, slip over zipper end. Fold in half, sew around all four edges of the tab.”
Whew. Props to Noodlehead for all the steps, and check out more of her sewing tutorials here… what should I make next? 🙂
Hope ya’ll had a great Christmas! 🙂
Another #waylatergram post but I just found this little DIY card holder that I made last year. Clearly I don’t use it, considering it was stashed in one of my sewing boxes… ha. I roughly based it off of this tutorial (for the measurements of the fabric and such), but ended up changing the placement of the two pockets so that if I were to ever use this for something like.. credit cards.. there’d be no chance of them falling out!
The wooden maple leaf button is pretty random but it came in a pack of the same buttons I used for my coffee cozy. Come to think of it, this project uses all the same materials– fusible interfacing, elastic banding, a button, embroidery thread, regular thread, and cute fabric. 🙂
The black polka dot fabric was from Joann’s; the light blue bird fabric was a sweet score from a friend who was giving away boxes of inherited fabric before she moved out-of-state.
My find has inspired me to get on the sewing machine again…! Hopefully a new project to show sometime soon. Happy Thursday… 6 days ’til 2014!
A short #waylatergram scheduled post– I’m away for the weekend in Yucaipa– be back later today! Hug a veteran you know today. 🙂
I made this oilcloth zippered pouch last year using Momtastic’s tutorial. Yes, apparently I read blogs with names like “Momtastic” and I am fine with that, mostly. (The tutorial was actually written by Liz Stanley of renowned blog, Say Yes to Hoboken— one of my faves).
I was won over by the tutorial when it claimed that knowing how to sew a zipper would separate a “beginner sewer” from an “intermediate sewer.” Agreed, Momtastic… agreed.
The tutorial was pretty thorough in instructions and pictures, so no need for me to rehash the steps for you. But a few things to note if you want to try yourself.
First, when it talks about using a zipper foot on the sewing machine, I literally had to Google it to see what it looked like and to see if one came with my sewing machine (it did). So you don’t have to do the same, here it is, off the sewing machine. Yep, I truly am (WAS. WAS.) a beginner sewer and am still learning…
Image via here
Second, if you want a pouch with squared off bottom corners like mine (the tutorial has blunted bottom corners), it’s a super simple fix. After the pouch is sewn together, and right before you flip it right side out, use scissors to snip off the bottom corners like so:
Image via here
After you flip it right side out, you can use a pencil or a chopstick or a knitting needle and poke it into the corners to create nice, sharp corners.
I love oilcloth because you can wipe it clean. Good for writing tools (I made 3 for OT use when I was working at a school– one for pencils/erasers, one for crayons, and one for markers) but also great for makeup/makeup brushes. 🙂
Onto bigger and better sewing projects!
I’m pretty apathetic when it comes to Halloween, so “Happy Halloween!” would be a fake greeting on my part. More like, “MEH. Halloween.”
I know I’ve mentioned somewhere on this blog that I’m working part-time (I just couldn’t bear the responsibility of being fully unemployed. SO MUCH PRESSURE. Of people asking, “What are you doing with all your time…?” and me having to come up with an answer other than, “Sleep……………..?”). So about a month ago I started working part-time in pediatric OT– same population of special needs kids, different setting (in a clinic).
Anyway, so work sprung on us pretty last minute that this week would be SPIRIT WEEK. I ain’t spirited about Halloween, damn it. Thankfully, I’m only there 3 days a week. Monday was “Sports Day,” and I fudged it by wearing a UCLA sweatshirt and saying that the Bruins were my favorite sports team. My boss, who happens to be a close friend, gave me this face: -___- and said it didn’t count. Wednesday was “Crazy Hair/Crazy Hat Day.” I brought a Minnie Mouse hat, just so I wouldn’t get the -___- face again, but boss-friend didn’t have crazy hair OR a crazy hat, so I was off the hook.
Unfortunately, I also work Thursdays. Thursday the 31st. Sigh. I decided a few days ago that I would have to at least try, so I threw together a costume that: 1) I’d be able to wear and actually treat kids in (my job is super physical), 2) wouldn’t require me to leave the house to purchase anything (I’m lazy).
Clearly, the best option was to be a shark. By wearing a shark hoodie. The idea was inspired by a friend’s costume from a few years ago, though if you do a simple Pinterest search you’ll find various takes. Here’s mine:
Yup. Tutorial below, for anyone who still needs a costume and has a hoodie, felt, and 1.5 hours on hand.
I love it when I have already have all the materials on hand for a given craft project. Felt can be bought at Joann’s or Michael’s for about a quarter a sheet. My plain grey hoodie is from American Apparel.
Cut 2 strips of white felt 12″x3″ (lengthwise down the sheet of felt). Cut 2 strips of red felt 12″x1.5″ (lengthwise as well). Glue the red strips onto the white strips, lining up the edges.
Cut out an eye shape from a piece of paper– mine was about 4.5″x2.5″, but obviously you can customize size and shape. If you want your shark to look more menacing (as menacing as a hoodie shark can look), cut the eye into a flattened-“U” shape.. like a smile. Trace your stencil x2 onto your remaining piece of white felt. Cut out two black circles for the irises, and two U shapes from the white felt to add some dimension to the eyes. Tacky glue it all together.
Measure and mark every 2 inches down the red piece of felt (so it’s divided into 6 equal segments). This measures the base of each tooth. Measure the midpoint of each of the six 2″ segments and mark at the top edge of the white felt. These marks will guide where you cut the triangles for the rows of teeth– start at each of the points on the outer edge of the white felt, and cut diagonally into the felt, stopping at the marks you drew by the red felt (see picture on the right). Repeat for both strips of felt.
Left picture shows what your finished strips should look like. You want the two strips to be one long continuous strip, so flip the strips over and line them up. Use a scrap triangle from the teeth you just cut out and use it as a “sticker” to glue the two strips together. I ended up using hot glue because I didn’t want to wait for the tacky glue to dry. Impatient.
Left: The pieces you should have so far! Right: Figure out where you want the eyes to be placed by wearing your hoodie, slapping the felt eyes on your head, and gingerly taking it off while keeping the eyes in place. Sew eyes onto hoodie with a simple running stitch.
Line your strip alongside the inner edge of your hood, with the red side obviously facing out. Left: The teeth should be lined up in such a way that when the hood is on, white triangles are showing from the sides. Sew your strip, again with a running stitch, into the inner part of your hood. Because I was using white thread, when I get to the red portions, I sewed into the bottom layer of the white felt only (like a blind stitch) so the thread wouldn’t show.
ALL DONE! Left: side view. Right: Top view.
What it looks like on!
Clearly the scariest shark in all the land. Duh-Nuh…Duh-Nuh…DUH-NUH-DUH-NUH. (Jaws music, get with it).
Anyway, nothing fancy but definitely work-appropriate and easy to work in. If you’re into dressing up in costumes that end with “ho” (e.g. nurse…ho, angel…ho, cowgirl…ho), then I guess you can wear it with a short grey skirt and zip it up only halfway. Shark……ho. Just sayin.’
Will end this post with the cutest costume ever. My niece… dressed up as a stalk of corn.
‘Til next Halloween…
Actually I made two, but I only like one. Gawd, am I going to become one of those homely chicks who hand-makes all her clothes?
I saw this tutorial on Extra Petite and tried my hand at my first clothing sewing project. A basic elastic skirt. It was pretty simple and didn’t take too long. Let’s ignore the fact that for my first attempt (the navy skirt), I accidentally sewed shut the entire opening of the skirt (i.e. the place where your waist goes)… how do I even do stuff like that. I don’t know.
Anyway, I think the real difficulties lie in: 1) choosing the right fabric, and 2) coming up with the correct measurements to fit your body. For my first attempt (navy), I went with a thicker cotton– it was a bit stiff and had just the slightest bit of sheen to it– and I cut my panels to 23″x23″ (FYI, I am 5’5″ and 25″ waist). The skirt ended up being too stiff, wide, and long (the pictures below are not scaled to each other– the chambray is slightly smaller than the navy in real life). For my second attempt, I used a lightweight chambray and cut down the panels to 19.5″x21.5″– significantly smaller.
The navy skirt is wearable but not ideal in terms of fit. I hemmed it up a ton in terms of length, but the fabric’s stiffness and the gradual widening of the skirt is a bit unflattering, though technically it’s supposed to be an A-line. The chambray fits a lot better– the fabric is obvi slouchier and cutting down the width helped with the bulkiness. It’s kinda lost the A-line-ness, but I’d say it’s somewhere between a flouncy A-line and a pencil skirt.
All materials from Joann’s, with coupons–
Skirt 1 (navy):
-1 yard of 1″ elastic ($1.69)
-1 yard fabric ($9.99 + 40% off coupon)= $6.54
-(I already had matching thread)
TOTAL with tax: $8.37
Skirt 2 (chambray):
-1 yard of 1″ elastic ($2.29 + 50% off coupon)= $1.24
-1 yard lightweight chambray ($12.99 + 50% off coupon)= $7.08
-matching thread, which I ended up not even using b/c I was too lazy to change out the thread in my machine -_- ($2.79)
TOTAL with tax: $11.36
Woven belt: Anthropologie
Leather boots: Tahari
Not bad– skirts for ~$10 each. I’ll probably try again with another type of fabric (sticking with the lightweight stuff) and possibly add an inch or two to the width to give back some of the A-line-ness. Also, I omitted pockets for these skirts, but they are easily addable (per the tutorial).
Gonna start pairing this chambray skirt with boots, tights, and sweaters because IT’S AUTUMN, BEYOTCHES!
PS- Homely chicks unite. H8ers gon’ h8.
In this 90+ degree heat, I’ve decided to make a craft that will be totally useless for another few months. Or totally useless for… life. Haters gon’ hate.
This “heart warmer” has been on my “to-make” list since I saw it 2 winters ago. It’s a reusable hand warmer in the shape of a heart (filled with rice– stick it in the microwave to heat). However, I like owls and thought it would be (almost) equally easy to make it in an owl shape rather than a heart. But then I Googled “owl hand warmer” and of course, multiple hits came up, like this and this. Damn, it’s hard to be creative slash unique in the crafting world. Ah well. Here’s my take anyway.
SOOOO this project ended up taking 29032x longer than I originally anticipated. It’s actually quite easy, and all the sewing went by quickly (both by hand and machine)— until I had to deal with the cotton floral fabric (the rest is obvi felt). Something about the small pieces of thin cotton was just unmanageable to me and I was so.frustrated. Also my sewing machine jammed about 23x which was so.frustrating. And I wasted time trying out embroidery thread for the border and ended up removing it all (because it was ugly) which was also.. wait for it.. so.frustrating. Ack.
I think now that I’ve made it once though, I can do it again 10x faster (assuming I won’t have the same set of issues), but if you ask me… I’m kinda over hand warmers and owls at this point. But if youuuu want to try, here are the basic steps:
1) Draw a basic pattern for what you want your owls to look like. I chose a square-ish shape and an oval-ish shape, and ended up going with the former– about 2.5″x3.5″.
2) Draw and cut out a template onto card stock for the body and eyes. (Note that in the picture above-right, I have a stencil for the wings as well– I ended up not using that). I free-handed the pupils and the beak and thus did not need stencils for those.
3) Trace all stencils onto your felt (I used a black pen) and cut out– you’ll need two pieces for the body (front/back), and two eyes. Also, cut out two pupils and a beak. Using pinking shears, cut two wings in quarter-circle-ish pieces from fabric. You can use felt for this part too, but I think the fabric looks a lot better.
4) Either hand-sew or use a sewing machine to sew on eyes and beak. I used a machine for the white eyeballs and hand-sewed the pupils and beak.
(…..seriously all of this was super fast and easy up to this point)
5) Pin the two wings onto the front of the body. Sew just the innermost part of the wings (the CURVED parts) to the body. Then, tuck the outer edges of the fabric behind/underneath the felt, sandwiching the edges of the fabric between the two pieces of the body.
6) Sew (I used a machine) along the border of the entire owl, leaving a 1/2″ space for you to fill with rice. I left my hole at the very bottom.
7) Fill owl with uncooked rice (did I really have to specify “uncooked”?… yes, just in case), then hand-sew the hole closed.
To use, microwave for 20 seconds then… Hold in your hands. Put in your pocket. Caress against your face. Yay!
I really felt like steps 5 and 6 were the hardest parts– keeping the fabric where it was supposed to be while sewing along the border of the owl with the felt pieces nicely lined up. I may have had more issues because the edges of my felt were holey and stretched out from hand-sewing embroidery thread for my first time around the owl.
Ah well. Frustrations aside, I think it turned out pretty cute.
But next time, I’m sticking with the original heart shape………. too bad there won’t be a next time. 😉